Toledo : Spain – Day 9 – Holy Toledo!

Our 7 days tour only allowed 1 day in Portugal and we were going back to Spain again!  On our last day, we visited the holy city of Toledo.  Unfortunately, from Lisbon to Toledo is a very long 5 hours drive.  Even worse, there was nothing on the schedule except Toledo …

This is our rest stop and our last stopping point in Portugal.  I think it is in Estremoz.

Portugal is known for many things – like CORK!  Cork is actually a bark tissue from the Cork Oak, which Portugal has plenty of.  It is normally used to prevent wine from spilling; however, there are many more items you can make cork with .. such as :

… Now officially leaving Portugal … on the highway, we see fields and fields of vineyards …?  I am not sure what it is but it looks really nice 🙂

We stopped again, this time at another rest stop in Spain.

Another rest stop meal … and they also sold souvenirs.

Popular Spanish names:

Along the way, there were some interesting castles too!

Finally, we have arrived in Toledo!!!! Toledo historical background has made them a national treasure and it is only 1 hour away from Madrid!  The city has been inhabited since Roman times (called Toletum at the time) and at the outskirt of town also exists a ruin of a circus.

The bus driver took us to the other side of the Tajo River to take this awesome view of Toledo!  Apparently, it wasn’t much of a hidden spot since there were a lot of people there.

We were finally entering the old city of Toledo.  Toledo has a history that spans 2500 years going all the way back from Roman times.  Located in the middle of Spain,  the city came to be a very prosperous and culturally diverse.  The city was the capital of Spain until Madrid was chosen as the new capital in 1561.  Although its status is gone, they remain the religious capital of the country.

Its location, perched on a hill surrounded by water on all three sides, makes a fairly defensible city.

The city is actually quite convenient, with buses and high-speed trains reaching the city from Madrid as well as a huge underground parking lot and escalators.

Old Toledo is fairly small with only 10, 000 inhabitants and very few cars on the road.   However, the road does weaves and turn, a good test for your memory.  When we arrived at old Toledo, we saw a cute trolley car taking tourists around town!

The tour guide lead us from the parking lot through the weaving streets to the Cathedral.

Plaza de Zocodover

The Plaza de Zocodover was our meeting spot.  It was at the center of Toledo and was once used as a bullfighter ring and even as court of Inquisition judgements.  During its Arabic history, it might have been a livestock market too, as zocodover means livestock market in Arabia.

 

window display

 

 

We arrived at the plaza next to the Cathedral.  Our tour guide gave us free time to walk around, so we went to the Cathedral at Toledo. It was 8 Euros and this includes the audio guide.  You buy the ticket across the cathedral at their souvenir store.  The people there were not particularly friendly.

The Cathedral was built on top of a mosque shortly after the Reconquista and similar to many of the cathedrals we saw, were grande with high ceilings.

After Barcelona, I made it a point to go to every church I encounter, but by this church, I was glad I didn’t have to go to another one… they were all quite similar although this one … was a little bit more morbid.

The cathedral took more than 250 years to built and as such, embodies many different architectural styles.  There are also various paintings by the famous Greek painter, El Grecos and other painters.

The church was a little dark .. but it has many large colorful stainless windows.

There were more paintings~ I wasn’t able to take a lot of photos because I cannot use flash.

This was the choir.  It is located in almost at the entrance and to the left of the High Altar.

The organs … 

One of the highlights at the church, the Capilla Mayor, which is a huge alterpiece.

On the way to San Blas Chapel are also some really nice paintings.  Unfortunately, they are doing some renovations so we can only walk back and forth.

… and that was all the photos I have.  The most interesting part of this cathedral is the handing red hats from the ceiling.  Apparently, when the cardinal dies they are buried inside the cathedral at a spot they choose.  His cardinal hat that he once worn hangs from the ceiling, directly above his final resting place.

That was all the time I had in Toldeo, and wewere on our way our of this town.  Along these streets were also many souvenir stores, which I thought costs much cheaper than in Madrid and Barcelona.  I bought some nice looking fans, which I have since misplaced …

On the way was also a small ruin of a gate … ?

In fact, that was all the time I had in Spain too!

We rode back to Madrid, which was about 1 hour or so and the tour guide dropped us off at the Plaza de Espana.  I didn’t give him tips because I didn’t think he did a good job (I couldn’t depend on him to solve my problems because he knew neither Spanish OR English)  but apparently my mom paid for my share.  It was kind of obvious that he saw this only as a job; therefore, the quality wasn’t as good and unfortunately, it doesn’t look as though he will improve either … sigh.

We stayed at the same hotel we did in the first two days of our visit.  Sadly, our luggage was still missing from British Airways so we were in no mood to go out.  Therefore, I went downstairs and bought some donair to eat.

In the next morning, we checked out and took a taxi that the hotel called for us.  We were on our way to the airport and leaving!

I’m home!!!

A little update, a week after I returned home, so did my luggage.  My luggage flew overseas, visited the airport luggage cargos and came home.  We made several emails asking about any compensation, particularly for all the daily necessities that I had to buy for the 10 days I was without clean clothes.  In the end (after almost 5 months), they gave me back ONLY the items I had paid for and only if I had the receipts to show them.  I am not sure I want to fly with British Airway, at least not for the near future …

March 2016

Lisbon : Portugal – Day 8 – Baixa

Our final stop in Lisbon is downtown Baixa!  I wanted to visit the plaza, the churches, Barrio Alto, and go on a tram but that was too ambitious it turns out …

Without much introduction from the guide, we were dropped off near the Rossio to walk by ourselves around downtown.  Some of the tour group members just stayed at one of the cafes (missed visiting the famous Cafe Nicola!) in Rossio and had an afternoon snacks while others went shopping.

Rossio is a large plaza with the statue of Dom Petro IV on the top with justice, prudence, strength, and moderation as the four pillars.  Dom Petro IV was the 28th king of Portugal and release Brazil from colonial rule.

The area, along with Belem, was destroyed in the devastating earthquake and tsunami of 1755 and was rebuilt in a simple grid like manner unlike the older neighbourhoods.  I was reading the earthquake of 1755, and at the time, Lisbon was once of the biggest in the world; hence, being more devastating, more here.

The main street in Baixa is the Rua Augusta, a pedestrian street paved with cobble stone.  There are many boutiques, brand name stores, and restaurants along the way.  At the end of the street is the Triumphal Arch, and through that is the statue of Dom Jose I in horseback.

Prior to the 1755 earthquake, this place was where ships came to load and unload and there was a market for many exotic goods that came to passby this area.  Essentially, it was also the gateway to the city.  The previous name for this area is also called Terreiro do Paço, which means ‘Grounds of the Palace’, as it was part of the Ribeira Palace before it was destroyed by the tsunami.

Statue of Dom Jose I

The first building on Comercio Square was the Aro da Rua Augusta. It was built in 1755 but didn’t complete until 1875.  Recently, tourists can even go up to the arch to have a panorama view of downtown, for only 2.5 Euros!

Walking along the inside … there are cafes along the side.  The most famous being Cafe de Gelo, which sells an ice cream that was made especially for the court.  Over the years, there were lots of poets, artists, and politicians came to gather here.

The other side of the plaza is the waters!  Cruise ships can be spotted passing through here from time to time.

At the Comercio Plaza, we had two choices, turn right or turn left.  To the right would be the Igreja de Sto. Antonio, a very pretty church and if we decide to walk further, may even reach the castle, Castelo S. Jorge!  To the left would be Convento do Carmo, a church that was partially destroyed by the 1755 earthquake but was left as it was, as a stark reminder of the event.  More interestingly, there is a Santa Justa Lift, an elevator that takes you from Baixa to Carmo Squre.  Regrettably, we turned right and the church was just a little further than I had anticipated.  There was also an uphill slope …. Therefore, we only visited Igreja de Madalena (Church of Magdalene).  It was built on top of an ancient Arab Mosque.

Igreja da Madalena 

Any who,  we turned back and walked back onto the pedestrian street to find cheap souvenirs.  There are a lot of small souvenir stores that are opened by immigrants.  They speak English and accepts bargaining (because there was no prices on the good).  I got my guidebook 1 euro cheaper than the souvenir store next store .. yeah…

It was getting dark, … we passed through some fairly empty streets.  There were lots of stores that are vacant around this part of town ….

In the end, we waited by a restaurant and looked at seafood …

I also went shopping and bought a nice jacket for really cheap!  Then we head back to the hotel … the hotel is located somewhere near the airport ….

March 2016.

Lisbon : Portugal – Day 8 – Belém!

We’ve arrived at the historical place where Vasco de Gamma set sail to the other side of the world (as was Dom Henrique’s sail that ‘discovered’ the African Coast and Cabral’s Brazilian voyage).

I went with a tour so I didn’t have to navigate the streets this time but along Belém are these cute trams that can easily get visitors there from Lisbon central.

Our first stop was the Belem Tower (T0rre de Belem), a lighthouse built between 1514-1521 by King Dom Manual I.  The tower was originally in the middle of the Rio Tejo but an earthquake displaced the sand beds and silt accumulation results in the tower now connected with the land.

Visitors can also go into the Belem Tower but our tour guide actually discouraged us from going in so we can leave on time.  It is €6 to enter but you can also bundle it with other attractions and buy the tickets here.

Along the path is also a nice view of the 25th of April Bridge (which some people compared it with the Golden Gates of San Francisco) and the Sanctuary of Christ the King.

Next to the parking lot is a souvenir market for cheap souvenirs!   Comparing prices, things in Portugal is a little cheaper than Spain …

The next place we stopped by was the Monument of Discoveries (Padrão dos Descobrimentos).  The monument was inaugurated in 1960 to commemorate 500th year since the death of Prince Henry The Navigator.

In the monument, Prince Henry heads the spear followed by Vasco de Gamma, other famous explorers, scientists, poets, and missionaries.  Despite its size, there are 7 floors inside with a cultural center and museum of discovery, as well as an auditorium! Admission is 2.5 euros! More info here.

the backside

Behind the Monument of Discovery is the Monastery of Jeronimos, which was also commissioned to be built by King Manual I to celebrate the Portugal discoveries.  The location is on top of another monastery, which the explorers had once prayed before their voyages.  It was built between 1502 to 1601.

Of course, we didn’t have time to go in but this building it quite impressive, with very detailed carvings, an archaeological museum, and the tombs of King Manual I, explorer Vasco de Gama, poet Luis Vaz de Camoes, and other Portuguese royalties.  The central nave is 25 meters in height …and we only got to see the outside and from afar at that.

I read that Ginjinja (or Ginja for short) is super famous in Portgual.  It is a sweet cherry liqueur that combines strong wine with cherry and lots of sugar.  We were passing by the monastery when we found this little hut selling Ginja!

We just bought one shot and  shared it between my mom and I.  I was sure my face was hot and burning after gulping half of it.  It came in a very, very small cup.  You can’t even see the size but its like smaller than a pinky.

In the area of Belem!  The area use to be where the wealthy makes their homes as well as its cultural center, being home to many museums.

The reason why we are here: Pastéis de Belém!   They sell the famous Custard Cream Tarts, which originated from the monks in the Monastery of Jeronimos.  The store has been in existence since 1837 and is said to sell an average of 15,000 tarts a day to tourists and locals alike (addy: R. Belém, 1300-085 Lisboa).

Having so many visitors, they have a pretty good assembly line to sell tarts.

In the mean time, as you wait, you can enjoy the beautifully decorated bakery.

We only bought two because the tart tastes the best when it is nice and hot.  They gave us some cinnamon and powered sugar to add on.  The tart is so famous that it spread and became a local delicacy in Macau,  the tiny territory on the other side of the world that was under Portugal jurisdiction until 1999.

With that .. we leave Belem for Baixa.  I read that there is a very nice bike lane that goes from Belem to Baixa along the seaside .. maybe next time… definitely worth coming back,

March 2016.

Colares : Portugal – Day 8 – Cabo de Roca

Leaving Spain, we were heading to Portugal! The first stop was a .. rest stop.  In Portugal, they are known for their Portuguese tart and they were already selling it at the stopover!

We continued on the road until lunch, which was also a rest stop.  We assume that Portugal has good seafood because half of their border is on the Atlantic Ocean, so we bought a fish dish.

on the road

After another long drive, we were finally in Lisbon!!!  We passed by the Sanctuary of Christ the King, cross the bridge .. and left the city …?

passing through the city

passing through the city

Actually, we were going to Roca Cape (Cabo de Roca) instead.  This is the westernmost point of Europe’s continental and perhaps long ago, people thought that this was the end of the earth.  It is probably also here that people also started sailing beyond the Cape, testing to see if their ships will fall of the edge.

The monument to show the end of Europe, as some might have believed long ago.

Roca Cape is land that literally drops off – a cliff.  It is about 140 meters above the sea and it gets super windy.  Hold onto all hats!

Beyond the monument is a path, but many people sit at the edge and eat lunch.  It is away from the tourists and of course, the view is awesome.

Somewhere along the way, the fence is gone … gulps. The view remains nice but it became more scary.  Be careful where you stand when you take a selfie.

Atlantic Ocean

There use to be a fort in this area and it had played an important role during the  Peninsular War souce.  There isn’t much that remains except the lighthouse.

The other side of the cliff ..

The lighthouse was built in 1772 and is currently the third oldest lighthouse.  It stands 22 meters high.

There is also another building at the bottom of the lighthouse – that is the visitor’s center ans washroom.

… last view from Cabo da Roca …  We were on a bus tour but by transit, there is a bus 403 that goes straight to the parking lot.  It comes from the town of Sintra and Cascais.

March 2016.